The Kosmonaut

Sunday, February 13, 2011

We arrived in Lviv, Ukraine by train, with no arrangements or even the slightest idea of where to stay. It seemed perfectly possible to knock on any door and be taken in by a Ukrainian grandma. We were going to our home country, after all.

We hopped onto a marshrutka, a small local bus in Ukraine. We didn’t know how to recognize the center of town, so we asked a guy sitting nearby to give us a nudge when we should get off. It felt incredible to be able to speak the native language with a local, who also happens to be a complete stranger on the other side of the world, and be understood.

Despite our lack of planning, we stumbled upon one of the neatest places to stay in Lviv. The Kosmonaut is a hostel on the upper level of an old building that’s not in the greatest shape. The wooden staircase that leads up to the hostel is sloping and so worn that it looks like it might cave.

We were charmed by the kitschy vintage touches inside. The faded pink and purple walls are covered with dated Soviet propaganda posters, old black and white photos, military jackets, and Soviet hats. The place was simple and cheap, but had a cozy appeal. The common kitchen had a dining table covered with a plastic sunflower tablecloth and in the corner stood a bookcase stuffed with books and random junk. Even our room had vintage phones, radios, and a stack of old Russian books. The wooden floors squeaked loudly with each step. Our bedroom window opened to the courtyard of the building, which was also old and crummy, but rugged in a good way. I instantly fell in love with the place.

- Julia

Update: I added more photos toward the bottom that I accidentally left out first time around!

Our bedroom:


The common areas:









The views out of our window into the courtyard:



27 comments :

  1. The thing is they probably aren't trying to be stylish with their decor but all that stuff is so very in at the moment.

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  2. This place looks amazing! So much to look at - and it's much more interesting than a standard international chain hotel. Wonderful.

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  3. Wow, what a place to stay! It might not be shiny and high-class, but it looks like it's got a story behind it, and I think that's even more wonderful.

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  4. oh i love it! falling apart perfect!

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  5. Your pictures really make the room and all its decor look amazing. In the hands of an amateur, I can't imagine the room looking nearly as cool!

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  6. I am loving these Ukrainian posts! My mom and I visited Ukraine five years ago when my brother finished up with his Mormon mission in Kiev. The sleeper trains, the swindlers outside the train stations, the marschrutkas, all of it..... bringing back memories of our two week visit. I was so bummed when my brother insisted we spent two whole weeks in Ukraine and not share our time visiting any of the amazing sites in Russia - like st petersburg - like I wanted to do. I thought surely, this was my one and only visit to that part of the world and I wanted to see it all. But, we stayed two weeks in Ukraine, visiting five cities (kiev, chernigov, cherkassy, illichovsk, and odessa), meeting the kind, humble people who took care of my brother, and searching out beauty in the run down, broken, and newly free Ukraine.

    Silly story: within the first few data of our trip, we saw so many buildings with signs that read "PeCTOPaH" and my mom, for the life of her, could not figure what they all were. To this dat, we still refer to restaurants - even in the US - as "pectopah"'s.

    cannot WAIT to see the rest of your visit through Ukraine.

    I can't wait to see more of what your trip!

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  7. This looks like a pretty nice (and clean!) hostel. The outside definitely has some character : ) Makes for beautiful photographs.

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  8. Wonderful old word cold war type photos here.

    I lvo what you write in your "About us" :

    "absolutely broke, but loaded with unforgettable memories, and more in love than ever."

    If there is ever a time to go, this was it. Good for you. your photos are fantastic. I wish you had a way to follow too.

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  9. I absolutely love this post so so much. Makes me happy and it makes me want to be in that hostel - it's so charming, like time has stood still. Thanks for showing me a part of the world I would probably never see (and near where my family came from too!) You're lucky you speak the language; I love hearing about how that makes for a new/different experience compared to the other places the two of you have been. Keep up the beautiful work.

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  10. I love it so much :)
    As soon as I finished looking through the photos i couldn't help but close my eyes and let my imagination take me there.

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  11. NICE!! Is that a real picture of the guy and the rocket in the back ground?

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  12. how did you find this soviet time capsule? it looks ridiculous.

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  13. reminds of old Russia and faded 1950s relics

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  14. What an adventure... such beautiful images/perspectives. Enjoy the rest of your trip! :)

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  15. Oh, you guys are the cutest couple ever. I just found your blog via some link. I can't wait to go through it! gorgeous photos. This hotel looks perfect for Valentine's Day. Happy travels.

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  16. P.S. I'm also from Seattle and a 2002 was my first car. Love your blog. ~Mindy

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  17. looks like a fun place - but only for those, who haven't lived in a communist country..
    lot of people suffered because of them

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  18. I can't believe I found your blog only now. I am in LOVE with your photography, it is so beautiful and inspiring!! Thanks so much for taking us with you on this epic journey, I am so much looking forward to see and learn more!
    Viele Gruesse, Kristina

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  19. Hi Julia and Yuriy!

    I've been following up your blog since you started and I love it :) amazing pics and stories!

    I will also be doing on a around the world trip after I get married this summer :) and I have a couple of questions I would like to ask you but I don't seem to find anywhere in your blog what is your email :)

    If you could confirm me would be great!

    Cheers,
    Juana (juana@clix.pt)

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  20. So much history in that room! What a fun experience!

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  21. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5210806231_c62e0c237c_b.jpg

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  22. I happen to know the owner, a stylish middle-aged Australian. Trust me, the aesthetic choices made in putting together this hostel are by no means accidental.

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  23. Impressive. As an aging australian grandfather this is the place I imagine I would like to stay in for at least part of the time I have left. There is no mention of proximity to hospitals, but in order to enjoy the ambience this is a risk I would be prepared to take. Is there a special rate for longer term residence?

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  24. I knew all you vintage junkies would get a kick out of this place!

    Aubry- Your comment about "pektopahs" made me laugh out loud. I was actually imagining how Americans would read all the signs (since that's what I'd been doing in every other foreign country.. just sounding it out).

    Dima- No, its not real. That would be way too cool.

    Mindy- We love our 2002! I can't believe it was your first car.. how very trendy of you. AND you're from Seattle. I think we could be great friends.

    Anonymous- Is it really??? How did an Australian end up opening a place in Lviv? Well he did a fabulous job styling it.

    Mr. Schulz- I wouldn't want to stay here for too long, as young, loud backpackers are always passing through. Great sense of humor. Your comment (and blog) made me smile.

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  25. Taras- Looks like you've been at The Kosmonaut! Neat photos.

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  26. Your photos are great and I enjoy reading your blog! Do you use any photoshop actions to get your photos looking that way? They are great!! If so, where did you get them and what are they called? (If you don't mind sharing.) Thanks!

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